On Wednesday, June 8, 2016 at 12:40:50 AM UTC+1, wrote:
I'm interested in this speaker. Anyone has built one and has the plan to share with me.
http://www.audio-talk.co.uk/fiultra/...20T91HWAF3.jpg
Many thanks!
Then, On Wednesday, July 13, 2016 at 5:44:23 PM UTC-4, Andre Jute wrote:
Plans are available from Lowther. Ask for the Fidelio Bicor plans. You need to be an expert woodworker to cut your own wood. Check the many angles. Your best bet is to buy the wood pre-sawn. I got mine from Audio Technik in Germany. There is more about the development of this loudspeaker at
http://www.audio-talk.co.uk/fiultra/...dre%20Jute.htm
You can ignore the resident "instant experts".
who would THAT be?
Such ignorant arrogance casts doubt on everything else they say.
really? (/me snickers)
It's a grand speaker with a grand sound when matched to a suitable amplifier.
more snippage
And finally, on 07/14/16 05:39, Peter Wieck so wittily quipped:
Show us some performance curves. If you can't (or won't) then please do not attempt to influence someone new to the hobby into a toxic decision that *WILL* make him unhappy, but only after the expenditure of considerable and unrecoverable time and treasure. Generally, a audio speaker of any repute should be dead-flat (3dB) from 40 Hz to 20 KHz. Very good ones will be +/- 3dB from 20 - 40K. Lowthers are (typically) measured only between 200 and 10K, as their performance past those points on either end drops so severely.
and that would be a DEAL KILLER as far as I am concerned. I don't like
hearing the low E on the bass 'drop off' or go 'boom'.
And horns+cymbals shouldn't sound like you turned down the treble
control, either.
I know what stuff will sound like through decent quality headphones. So
when I speaker-shop, I go to that 'big wall' (assuming one exists) and
play music through them until I hear something that sounds like what I
expect it to sound like with decent headphones. You compare that to the
published specs, etc.. You also need to calculate free air resononance
for woofers and subs, make sure your reflex ports and cabinet size are
correctly adjusted. The Howard W. Sams book on speaker design is pretty
good for that kind of thing, gives you some nice starting points.
So unless your cabinet is tweeked for specific speakers, the design is a
lot of CRAP. Sure, you might get lucky and pick the correct ones, and
they might even be matched with one another as far as woofer/mid/tweeter
go, and your crossover might even have the correct frequencies in its
design so that there aren't any humps or valleys in the performance
curve, no gross phase shifting, yotta yotta, and that ALSO includes
relative placement of the various speakers to one another with respect
to phase shifts and 'null points' in the audio spectrum caused by that
kind of thing, like repeatedly poking your finger in a bucket of water
where you see standing waves, swells, and troughs.
I've gotten the BEST performance EVER out of 'infinite baffle'
construction with no reflex port, and good quality 6x9 CAR SPEAKERS,
which have pre-fab construction with a crossover. Everything's been
designed to work well and with everything mounted 'on center' like that,
you don't get a lot of phase distortion between the woofer/mid/tweeter
drivers. The resulting audio is consistent, has good frequency
response, and isn't overly expensive or difficult to work with.
So I spend maybe $200/pair for the car speakers (let's say), and maybe
$100 on wood and other miscellaneous things for a 2x3x4 ratio 3 cubic
foot enclosure (using something like 3/4" presswood, to minimize
resonance effect), line it with some acoustic dampening material
(stapled in place with a staple gun), wire up a connection box (or just
hang the wire out the back), and make it look 'like furniture' (a nice
'cheat' way would be to use wood tape or presswood shelf material with
actual wood grain, glued in place). Grill cloth can be purchased from
musical instrument supply places (the Peavey cloth is actually pretty
nice). Paint flat color on the front so the grill cloth matches the
paint, put some framing around it, and some nice feet if you want.
Anyway, I did that _decades_ ago. Last replaced the drivers back in the
late 90's (the old cones were rotting away). Still sounds _great_,
handles 50W/channel easy. Makes movies sound like you're in the
theater. Doesn't need a subwoofer, either.