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Mista T
 
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Henry,

I also own a Precise 111. I don't have the roll-chart problem so I
can't help you there although I will agree that the engineering behind
them could have been better. I could say the same for most testers
with roll charts.

I have been through the entire calibration procedure a couple of times
and I must warn you that it's no walk in the park. You'll probably
need to invest a couple hours of time but it's well worth the effort.
The manuals on the BAMA server are my own work and in addition to lots
of clean-up and reformatting, you'll find that I also retyped the
calibration instructions to make them more clear and readable. The
typesetting on the original Precise manuals and roll charts is pretty
poor.

I own a Hickok 533 (which I love) in addition to the Precise 111 but I
have to tell you, the Precise gets more use because of its'
versatility. If you read the section of the manual on "Measuring
Element Current", you'll find that with the addition of a multimeter,
it's very simple to measure plate current, screen current, grid
current, etc., using the pin jacks on the front panel. Very helpful
for matching output tubes! I agree with Alan in regards to the
construction. It's too bad the folks at Precise didn't make the front
panel a little more rigid but it doesn't present a problem unless you
have it apart and are you're moving it around alot. When I have it
apart for calibration, I set the whole assembly on its' side inside
the box and I find I can reach the various test points and adjust the
pots without having too much trouble.

By the way, I've scanned, cleaned up, and re-formatted the roll-chart
data (dated 1959) and will be uploading it in PDF format to the BAMA
server in the next few weeks. Still doing some final tweaks. That, in
addition to the supplemental data sheets I've already uploaded, should
provide a pretty complete data set for this tester. Get in touch if
you have any specific questions regarding calibration. Glad to help if
I can.

Regards,
Tim Gregoire