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Default Western Electric 300B Matched Pair

On Mon, 09 Jan 2012 13:14:34 -0800, Morris Slutsky wrote:

On Jan 9, 8:20Â*am, dave wrote:
On Thu, 05 Jan 2012 10:00:20 -0800, Roger Jones wrote:
On Jan 4, 8:27Â*am, dave wrote:
On Tue, 03 Jan 2012 12:20:22 -0800, acamil wrote:
I have a matched pair of Western Electric 300B. I obtained them
from the factory in April 1998. The packing slip is in the
beautiful wooden case that has the following engraved on the top:
one matched pair WESTERN ELECTRIC (logo)
No. 300-B


The serial numbers are 210571 & 210572.


Each tube is in a FACTORY SEALED BOX with the serial number on the
seal.


I am asking $875.00 for the matched pair.


I am located in New Jersey and my email is


We all have our fetishes I suppose...


http://www.enjoythemusic.com/channel/ch300b/


What a load of unmitigated nonsense is on that site! Quote: "After
all, how many solid-state amplifiers can you quickly and easily
change the output device(s) to subtly modify the sound of the music
it reproduces? None!"
But why would you want to? Â*The STK modules and the FET linear o/p
stages are the closest thing to a "straight wire with gain" that we
have ever seen. Â*The prior discrete Yamaha M2 and M4 amplifiers also
did this... Â*DC to 100KHz, +/- 0.5 dB and virtually no THD and no
harmonics.
Â*All are technically superior to any tube amplifier I have ever
Â*seen.
So why do some of us play with tube amps? Â*For me, it's the ambiance
of the glowing tubes, the design challenge, they're collectables,
they look good, and, yes, when done well they sound good... but the
best of the linear s/s amps are better.
The religious will now get upset!
Cheers,
Roger


The even order harmonic distortion is what gives tube amps their
warmth. 300Bs have very low output, requiring horn loaded speakers for
decent volume, a design that also has unique distortion that some find
cozy.

I like tube amps, but not tubes that cost more than a decent amp.

http://www.mcintoshlabs.com/us/Produ...tDetails.aspx?
CatId=Amplifiers&ProductId=MC2301


Audiophiles like to run 300B's as single-ended, class A, which limits
their efficiency seriously. And yes, that way generates boatloads of
2nd-order harmonics. But that isn't inherent in the 300B so much as
it's part of the circuit topology. A 300B can dissipate 30 or 40 watts
on it's plate, which is higher than that of an EL34! But single- ended
class A will only give you about 10 Watts that way, max, before
distortion gets seriously annoying. It's not the tube but the circuit
that limits power - despite it's old-timey appearance, a 300B actually
can dissipate more power than some pentodes. If you ran a EL34 in
single-ended class A, you'd get even less power than the 300B would
give.

If you hooked up 300B tubes, a pair of them, in push-pull like a pair of
EL34s or 6L6s usually are run, you could easily get 60 Watts out of the
pair, maybe more. Unfortunately, triodes have a lot less gain than
pentodes, and to get this full output you'd need a driver stage capable
of supplying current to drive the grids positive - class AB2 operation -
pretty much like the output stage of the SVT. I think that this would
sound great for a little bass amp. Except for the cost, fragility, and
microphonics of the tubes, which is why I haven't tried it.


Very true, but all the 300B junkies I've read about only use triode
configuration. I used to sell Altec A7s and they were a market. The
Klipschorn was the preferred speaker, but nobody could afford one after
buying a set of tubes.