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Peter Wieck Peter Wieck is offline
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Default what tube tester for a new guy?

On Dec 9, 1:16*pm, Cipher wrote:
"Ian Iveson" wrote in news:t5x%k.47589
:





Cipher wrote:


My inlaws are asking me what I want for christmas...and I
think a tester is
a good idea. what makes, models, ebay auction numbers do
yall reccomend?


want reliablity, something widely used and documented and
timeless...


If you say what you want it for, we may be able to be more
helpful. Location is important because many are *very*
heavy.


What was reliable then may no longer be so, depending on
where it's been and what it's done since. If you want
accuracy, calibration is a serious and potentially expensive
issue.


I would guess that only a very small proportion of old
testers have recently seen much use, and of those few will
be calibrated. Consequently, reliability and accuracy would
be largely unknown.


Ian


Well, to check my tubes, of course.

no really. I am just getting into electronics/vacuum tubes(ive used tubes
for a long time, but I mean getting involved in the deeper aspects like
design, theory, whatnot) and as such, I am trying to assemble a tool kit
for my garage(currently where I woodwork and lift weights/box)... *
something that will allow me access to all the functions a serious
hobbyist/future builder( ) will use..

I am in North Carolina.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


This is a much more complicated consideration than "which tube
tester". A good electronic (tube-focused) workbench needs to include
considerably more equipment than a tube tester - in fact a tester is
pretty far down in the hierarchy of tools needed. Well after a good
meter (which I believe you have), an oscilloscope (Dual-trace, high
mhz) - and the skills and understanding to use it - numerous hand-
tools, an isolation transfomer of sufficient size to handle any
anticipated load, a properly metered variac, a decent capacitor tester
and ESR meter (if not part of the cap tester), perhaps a good LCR
meter. Bench DC power-supply, Soldering station, numerous high-quality
hand-tools, good lighting, good ventilation - now we might consider a
decent tube tester.

You can get a good go/no-go device for ~$100 or so that will keep you
until you have accumulated all of the above, and only THEN after some
considerable experience under your belt should you decide if you need
a higher-end tester. The brute fact of the matter is that for serious
audio use, a tester that does not allow you to match tubes properly
(plate current, bias voltage, GM, etc.) is not a whole bunch better
than that simple $100 good-quality, properly maintained emissions
tester. A tester that *DOES* allow you to match tubes ain't nohow
cheap.

http://cgi.ebay.com/HICKOK-539-C-539...mZ160291059298

After which you will need to send it he

http://cgi.ebay.com/Hickok-539A-539B...mZ280155063343

After which, all other things being as-described, you will have a very
good tester for audio use. If you _REALLY_ need to spend those sorts
of bucks.

The alternative that happened to work out for me is to put yourself in
harm's way and rattle the bushes for such a tester - Craig's List, Ham-
Fests and such - 'for cheap' and then restore it properly. I paid $100
for a tester (539B), $20 for manuals and additional paper, $5 worth of
miscellaneous parts and diodes, a good friend made me some calibrated
6L6 sample tubes, and about 12 hours work cleaning and making minor
repairs to the innards.

But for every day use (90+% of the time), the Simpson 555 does just
fine.

http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZmacradio2

Some cheap testers - Buy at your own risk. They are complicated and
persnickety. And contain many unobtainium parts.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA