[Boon[_2_]]

On Jun 3, 8:18*pm, Bret L wrote:
On Jun 2, 8:01*pm, Boon wrote:





On Jun 2, 4:06*pm, Bret L wrote:

On Jun 1, 8:12*pm, "Shhhh!!!! I'm Listening to Reason!"

wrote:
On Jun 1, 5:40*pm, Bret L wrote:

and have no METHODOLOGY
*Clear and concise procedures are no where to be found.

Go ahead. Post the "clear and concise" procedures and the METHODOLOGY.

*I actually don't have a methodology or a fixed procedure. But at
least I KNOW I am lacking this important information (and seek to
correct this deficiency) *whereas the high enders both lack it and the
knowledge that it is necessary.

*As for "any modern pre will work", yes, after a fashion it will.

*Permanently soldered components-the right ones once you know what
they are-are an advantage over DIP or panel rotary, or even the relays
used for remote controlled settings. That's why optimum results mean
you have to be able to solder. Optimum, means the best possible.
Consumerized solutions can approach but never achieve it since they
have to accomodate all contingencies.

And yet the best-sounding phono preamps tend to have all the user
conveniences as well, so you can have your cake and eat it too.

Your comments mirror the fact that the best speaker wire connections
are ones that are hardwired inside the speakers. Too bad it can't be
approved by UL. But if you DIYers want to set your houses on fire, go
ahead.

UL approval applies to mains connections, not speaker connections.

*Even then UL approval is not required for consumer products in the US
except under certain conditions. Many high end audio commercial
products are not UL approved.

*EU countries require a different approval.

I've had three separate engineers tell me otherwise. Nice try.