On 13 Feb, 19:57, dave wrote:
Edward Morris wrote:
It's twist lock. *Two of the tabs are soldered to the chassis so it's going
to be a battle just to get the capacitor out without breaking the tabs off.
Thanks to everyone for your advice.
Eddie
http://www.stanleysupplyservices.com...spx?pn=114-202
Indeed, it should be no problem to desolder the tabs from the
cassis:-) I have three irons, a Weller TCP job, a Metcal and an old
Weller gun. The gun is the one for a job like this. If you dont have a
good(ish) high wattage iron then you will need one. If you try with a
45W one or something similar you will be holding it on all day and
probably end up melting something. I also have a little Antex 15W iron
but since I got the Metcal I dont really use it for fiddly little
surface mount lead free nonesense. The Weller TCP does the job all day
long no probs. Not that the Metcal wouldnt, Im just used to the
Weller.
You can pick up a cheap gun type iron at any hardware place, they
really do come in handy. If you get one be sure to get one that the
"bit" is held by a pair of slotted bolts a bit like a cable adjuster
on a bike. If you get one with a couple of screws the threads will
strip after a few changes and then its tap it out bigger, you cant do
this much more than once. The ones that use the slotted bolt set up
have swaged over ends on the bit (bent piece of wire) making your own
bits is no problem. File a notch with a half round needle file in a
length of copper wire the same diameter as the old one, bend to the
shape of the original with the filed section inside at the tip, trim
the ends to an appropriate length and then clamp each one in the vice
and carefully pein the ends over like a rivet.
As for a desoldering thingy majob I use an Abeco DSG PRM. I have had
mine for 15 years and only replaced the nozzle (probably 20-30 times),
the spring went once and so did the latch. Its a bit like the old "see
this broom Ive ad it twenny yers neva lit me doon". Bloody good thing
though:-)
Matt.