[ChrisB]

Matt Ion wrote:
I don't get it either - starter kill is relatively simple to connect and
AFAIK almost all alarms still have the feature and probably even include
the relay and harness to make it easy. Usually the toughest part is
determining the right wire to interrupt (although wiring diagrams for
most cars simplifies that), and extracting it from its bundle to make
the connections.

Only times I've ever seen a "problem" with a starter kill relay is when
the install is sloppy and the connections poor, or when it's wired for
fail-secure operation (where it breaks the connection and the alarm
being disarmed re-enables the starter) and the brain dies. A fail-safe
wiring (where the relay makes the connection by default and the alarm
going off breaks it) shouldn't have any issues with the brain dying.

$100-$175 for an install isn't outrageous, if it's a properly-done
install - we're talking fused power wire run right to the battery,
relays on the light flash circuit, power-lock tie-in, brain well-hidden
inside the dash rather than just zap-strapped to the steering column,
etc. A quick'n'dirty install will just tap everything into the
under-dash wiring and will cost a lot less, but also be less reliable
(ie. more easily defeated).


Unfortunately, most of the "professional" installs I have seen from the
local shops have a brain that is easy to find and they will even mount
the valet switch on the steering column. The majority of them are just
tie wrapped to either the steering column, or the factory wiring harness
that runs to the steering column. Very sloppy to say the least!

The last time I installed an alarm, I disassembled the dash, took extra
care to reroute wires, and hid the brain. I used solder and heat shrink
tubing on all my connections and it was extremely difficult to tell
where the brain was due to the fact that all my wires were integrated
into the factory wiring bundles/harnesses/etc. The whole process took
about a day, but it was done right.