"Trudy Snooks" wrote in message
...
Using my wife's comp at the moment ...
wrote
My confusion starts with having so many freaking crossovers running in
my
rig. I have options for my HU, my amp and my component speaks. As of now
I
am using a combination of the included factory crossovers for the
components
and my electronic crossovers built into the Kicker amp. To me the system
sounds very good a little bright and harsh with certain material but
overall
I am happy with it. So should I bother with fooling around with the HU's
crossovers for better signal isolation or should I stick with the Kicker
crossover settings I am currently using. Both the HU and amp have bypass
switches to turn the crossovers off. Is it wise to use 3 separate stages
of
crossovers at one time in a rig?
Personally, I would try to use a minimal amount of signal 'tampering' to
get
the system to sound the way I want. In your case ...
I like to keep that frame of mind especially with audio gear, all the extra
sound fields that HT receivers offer do nothing more than distort and make
music sound incredibly fake.
1) Disable any crossovers in the head unit
2) High-pass the Kickers at 100Hz using the amp
3) High-pass the Polks at 100Hz using the amp
4) Low-pass the Sub at 100Hz using the amp
5) Attenuate the Kicker tweets by around -3dB (using the Kicker
crossovers)
to take care of the brightness
6) At this point, you should be able to fine tune the balance of the sound
by manipulating the input level of each amplifier channel
7) Now you can fine tune the sound using the equalizer in the head unit
I sort of figured the AMPs built in crossovers would be the cleanest. I will
defiantly try attenuating the Kicker fronts AGAIN. The default setting was
at +3, I have them at zero rite now. What was Kicker thinking by setting
them at + 3?
This also brings to mind another question I have about the bass
volume/boost
control thingy on my amp and on the Alpine HU. What configuration should
go
with for the cleanest most natural sounding bass? I listen to everything
from classic rock to funk.
If you decide to use a bass boost function, I would stick to the one on
the
HU. You can change it at any time to suit the type of music you are
listening to and the levels that music is recorded at.
If I disable the amps volume pod then I get absolutely zero bump, I haven't
tried it yet with the Alpine by itself just yet but will give it a go.
The Alpine CDA-7995 uses 4-volt RCA-outs, could someone please briefly
explain why this is considered better. My old NAK's signals must have
been
very week cause now that I have installed the Alpine HU I have cranked
my
gains from around %75 down to like %20 for my fronts and rears also the
sub
gain is down from around %75 to about %50.
Higher voltage results in less interference and a stronger signal reaching
the amp. The old Nak may have had 2V outputs. The amplifier will accept a
range of inputs (in your case 340mV - 10V) Therefore, with the higher
voltage level from you new head unit, you don't need to gains set as high
to
achieve the same output from the amp.
Thanks for the informative explanation and all the other great info.
Dave