Richard:
Per your request, I have taken a photo of the back of the circuit
board.
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/f.../CIRCUIT_3.jpg
I have numbered all of the connections so that no one will get
"lost".
They are as follows:
1 - speed control pot connections
2 - 43k resistor
3 - 332 ohm(?) resistor (orange/orange/red?/black/brown)
4 - 421M ohm(?) resistor (yellow/red/orange?/blue/green?)
5 - inductor (olive "resistor" shaped part)
6a - negative lead of 10uF/25v electrolytic
6b - positive lead of 10uF/25v electrolytic
7a - negative lead of 3.3uF/25v electrolytic
7b - positive lead of 3.3uF/25v electrolytic
8 - pink "resistor" (red/red/brown/grey/black)
9 - 22 ohm green resistor (red/red/black/silver)
10a - cathode of black diode (yellow stripe is closest to this
connection)
10b - anode of black diode
The positive and negative power connections are also indicated.
SOME QUICK ADDITIONAL COMMENTS, based on comments I have received so
far....
REMINDER: I know that I could easily get another motor. I AM SIMPLY
TINKERING FOR THE SAKE OF TINKERING, and it's a good opportunity to
learn a bit about this circuit. That's all!
Someone said that they found a substitute for AN6610, but that is NOT
the part number. The burned part says "AN6601". It is made by
Matsu****a (Panasonic). I do indeed have an exact replacement for
this part in hand. I found it online at a supplier specializing in
obsolete semiconductors.
I have tested the motor by running 9 volts directly into it. The
motor runs smoothly and quietly. I will take a current reading, just
to see what I find. But the motor appears to be OK.
I am currently going on the assumption that AN6601 failed on its own
and/or because of the fault of the diode.