Pete KE9OA
July 1st 03, 04:13 PM
Pro Gold is probably the best kind of cleaner that you can use. It is
around 17 dollars a can, but it is worth it.
Pete
Jeff Wiseman > wrote in message
news:ZlPHa.59786$YZ2.221612@rwcrnsc53...
> David Finton wrote:
> >
> <<stuff Deleted>>
> > I should try some contact cleaner in the NAD, though. I've never
> > done anything like that before. I suppose Radio Shack would sell
> > me some stuff in a can with a little tube. I wonder if the push-
>
> Yes, get the spray type cleaner. They also make liquid type
> cleaners but the spray is far better/easier to use for what you
> are attempting. It is also not real expensive.
>
> > button switches and volume / balance controls are sealed, or if
> > I'll find an opening to squirt some contact cleaner in them.
>
> The older the unit is, the less likely the controls are sealed
> (and even "sealed" controls usually aren't water-tight).
>
> > If I do that, do I just squirt the cleaner, move the control
> > back and forth, and give it a day to dry out before plugging
> > it back in?
>
> Well, sorta. Usually by the time you put the cover back on it's
> all done. The carrier of the solution is some kind of solvent
> that really penetrates so it evaporates quickly. A few suggestions:
>
> 1) Hold the tip of the tube as close as possible to the opening
> or even inside it if possible.
>
> 2) practice a really short blast. Even the better cleaners that
> come with the adjustable pressure nozzle (like Caig ProGold)
> tends to have lots of pressure. It's good for getting out the
> gunk but tend to fly all over the place. I'll usually place my
> hand or a rag around the area I'm shooting.
>
> 3) As you mentioned, moving the control between its limits while
> the solution is in it will help.
>
> 4) the carrier of the soulution usually dissipates within a
> minute or two.
>
> 5) The real trick is usually getting the unit apart far enough to
> get to the controls to spray them. Be careful of getting spray
> down in behind any faceplates or you'll have to take things even
> farther apart in order to clean the residue off of the faceplate.
>
> - Jeff
>
around 17 dollars a can, but it is worth it.
Pete
Jeff Wiseman > wrote in message
news:ZlPHa.59786$YZ2.221612@rwcrnsc53...
> David Finton wrote:
> >
> <<stuff Deleted>>
> > I should try some contact cleaner in the NAD, though. I've never
> > done anything like that before. I suppose Radio Shack would sell
> > me some stuff in a can with a little tube. I wonder if the push-
>
> Yes, get the spray type cleaner. They also make liquid type
> cleaners but the spray is far better/easier to use for what you
> are attempting. It is also not real expensive.
>
> > button switches and volume / balance controls are sealed, or if
> > I'll find an opening to squirt some contact cleaner in them.
>
> The older the unit is, the less likely the controls are sealed
> (and even "sealed" controls usually aren't water-tight).
>
> > If I do that, do I just squirt the cleaner, move the control
> > back and forth, and give it a day to dry out before plugging
> > it back in?
>
> Well, sorta. Usually by the time you put the cover back on it's
> all done. The carrier of the solution is some kind of solvent
> that really penetrates so it evaporates quickly. A few suggestions:
>
> 1) Hold the tip of the tube as close as possible to the opening
> or even inside it if possible.
>
> 2) practice a really short blast. Even the better cleaners that
> come with the adjustable pressure nozzle (like Caig ProGold)
> tends to have lots of pressure. It's good for getting out the
> gunk but tend to fly all over the place. I'll usually place my
> hand or a rag around the area I'm shooting.
>
> 3) As you mentioned, moving the control between its limits while
> the solution is in it will help.
>
> 4) the carrier of the soulution usually dissipates within a
> minute or two.
>
> 5) The real trick is usually getting the unit apart far enough to
> get to the controls to spray them. Be careful of getting spray
> down in behind any faceplates or you'll have to take things even
> farther apart in order to clean the residue off of the faceplate.
>
> - Jeff
>