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heckubiss
August 17th 03, 10:17 PM
Hi

After the major power outage we had I realised that my sub-woofer was
not working. I am not sure if it was because of the outage or if it
happened before and i just didnt realise it since i didnt have the
volume to high..

anyhow, i replaced the fuse and turned the power on but the power
light still does not light up and it doesnt play. what else should I
look for?

thanks,

Gary Lightfoot
August 18th 03, 02:07 AM
heckubiss wrote:

> anyhow, i replaced the fuse and turned the power on but the power
> light still does not light up and it doesnt play. what else should
> I look for?

Maybe an internal fuse has gone?

Unusual, but you never know. It's probably a small glass or ceramic
one if it is, but you'll have to take the sub apart (take the amp from
the box) to see. You'll also get a chance to seee if there are any
obviously burnt out components that may have gone as well.

Gary.

--?
www.g-lightfoot.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk
Please remove the spam trap from my email addy to reply.

heckubiss
August 19th 03, 01:13 AM
"Gary Lightfoot" > wrote in message >...
> heckubiss wrote:
>
> > anyhow, i replaced the fuse and turned the power on but the power
> > light still does not light up and it doesnt play. what else should
> > I look for?
>
> Maybe an internal fuse has gone?
>
> Unusual, but you never know. It's probably a small glass or ceramic
> one if it is, but you'll have to take the sub apart (take the amp from
> the box) to see. You'll also get a chance to seee if there are any
> obviously burnt out components that may have gone as well.
>
> Gary.
>
> --?
> www.g-lightfoot.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk
> Please remove the spam trap from my email addy to reply.





I noticed that after replacing the fuse, plugging the power cord, then
turning on the amp, with no imputs the fuse immidietly gets blown
again

I opened the amp and saw nothing suspect.

how could this be!??

David
August 19th 03, 03:13 AM
By replacing the fuse and not first determining what caused it to blow, you
likely caused further damage each additional time the fuse blew. The fuse
is there to prevent a fire in case of an excessive current draw inside the
unit.

If you are not equipped and trained to properly troubleshoot an amplifier,
you are probably better served to take the unit in for repair or at least an
estimate so you can decide whether to fix or replace.

David

heckubiss > wrote in message
...
> "Gary Lightfoot" > wrote in message
>...
> > heckubiss wrote:
> >
> > > anyhow, i replaced the fuse and turned the power on but the power
> > > light still does not light up and it doesnt play. what else should
> > > I look for?
> >
> > Maybe an internal fuse has gone?
> >
> > Unusual, but you never know. It's probably a small glass or ceramic
> > one if it is, but you'll have to take the sub apart (take the amp from
> > the box) to see. You'll also get a chance to seee if there are any
> > obviously burnt out components that may have gone as well.
> >
> > Gary.
> >
> > --?
> > www.g-lightfoot.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk
> > Please remove the spam trap from my email addy to reply.
>
>
>
>
>
> I noticed that after replacing the fuse, plugging the power cord, then
> turning on the amp, with no imputs the fuse immidietly gets blown
> again
>
> I opened the amp and saw nothing suspect.
>
> how could this be!??

John b
August 19th 03, 03:16 AM
don't know. maybe you need a slo-blo fuse rather than the fast one

JB

Tweetldee
August 19th 03, 01:06 PM
"heckubiss" > wrote in message
...
> "Gary Lightfoot" > wrote in message
>...
> > heckubiss wrote:
> >
> > > anyhow, i replaced the fuse and turned the power on but the power
> > > light still does not light up and it doesnt play. what else should
> > > I look for?
> >
> > Maybe an internal fuse has gone?
> >
> > Unusual, but you never know. It's probably a small glass or ceramic
> > one if it is, but you'll have to take the sub apart (take the amp from
> > the box) to see. You'll also get a chance to seee if there are any
> > obviously burnt out components that may have gone as well.
> >
> > Gary.
> >
> > --?
> > www.g-lightfoot.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk
>
> I noticed that after replacing the fuse, plugging the power cord, then
> turning on the amp, with no imputs the fuse immidietly gets blown
> again
>
> I opened the amp and saw nothing suspect.
>
> how could this be!??


It's pointless to keep replacing the fuse and expecting it to start working.
Whatever is making the fuse blow hasn't been fixed. Until the fault is
repaired, the fuse will continue to blow. It ain't gonna fix itself!!
Most of the time, faulty electronic components look just like good
components, that is there is no visible difference between good and bad
components (unless the component overheated and/or burned). You need the
proper test equipment and know how to use it in order to distinguish between
good vs. bad components.
You need to take the advice of an earlier poster and take the unit to a
qualified repair shop. They should have the equipment, knowledge and
experience to properly troubleshoot the unit and replace the defective
components. Only then will the fuse stop blowing.
Cheers!!!
--
Tweetldee
Tweetldee at att dot net (Just subsitute the appropriate characters in the
address)

Time is what keeps everything from happening all at once.

jakdedert
August 19th 03, 04:49 PM
Hey, there's always the old 'smoke test.' Replace the fuse with a solid
piece of metal...1/4" bolt works well.

Turn it on, stand back and plug it in...25' extension cord and some sort of
blast shield (at least 1/2" plexiglass is advised) are good accessories for
this test...whatever component(s) blow(s) massive amounts of smoke--or
explodes--is likely the culprit. Never mind that you'll also take out
several associated parts as well. Most'll be nicely 'marked' with
scorches...makes for easy identification of blown/defective components
(although hinders identification for replacement purposes)...some may even
remove themselves from the circuit board--explosively.

At this point, find/indentify/replace all the missing/charred pieces and
power up with a proper fuse...above safety accessories are advised at this
stage as well. Also, some traces on the circuit board itself may now be
missing--replace with at least 16 gauge wire.

If it blows again, you missed something...


....OR, you can use accepted troubleshooting techniques, ID the problem which
is causing your fuse to blow and repair same. Better yet, get some
assistance from someone who knows what they are doing...like a repair
facility.

Or chuck it into the trash.

Your choice.....

jak

"Tweetldee" > wrote in message
...
> "heckubiss" > wrote in message
> ...
> > "Gary Lightfoot" > wrote in message
> >...
> > > heckubiss wrote:
> > >
> > > > anyhow, i replaced the fuse and turned the power on but the power
> > > > light still does not light up and it doesnt play. what else should
> > > > I look for?
> > >
> > > Maybe an internal fuse has gone?
> > >
> > > Unusual, but you never know. It's probably a small glass or ceramic
> > > one if it is, but you'll have to take the sub apart (take the amp from
> > > the box) to see. You'll also get a chance to seee if there are any
> > > obviously burnt out components that may have gone as well.
> > >
> > > Gary.
> > >
> > > --?
> > > www.g-lightfoot.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk
> >
> > I noticed that after replacing the fuse, plugging the power cord, then
> > turning on the amp, with no imputs the fuse immidietly gets blown
> > again
> >
> > I opened the amp and saw nothing suspect.
> >
> > how could this be!??
>
>
> It's pointless to keep replacing the fuse and expecting it to start
working.
> Whatever is making the fuse blow hasn't been fixed. Until the fault is
> repaired, the fuse will continue to blow. It ain't gonna fix itself!!
> Most of the time, faulty electronic components look just like good
> components, that is there is no visible difference between good and bad
> components (unless the component overheated and/or burned). You need the
> proper test equipment and know how to use it in order to distinguish
between
> good vs. bad components.
> You need to take the advice of an earlier poster and take the unit to a
> qualified repair shop. They should have the equipment, knowledge and
> experience to properly troubleshoot the unit and replace the defective
> components. Only then will the fuse stop blowing.
> Cheers!!!
> --
> Tweetldee
> Tweetldee at att dot net (Just subsitute the appropriate characters in
the
> address)
>
> Time is what keeps everything from happening all at once.
>
>

Gary Lightfoot
August 19th 03, 08:25 PM
Tweetldee wrote:

> It's pointless to keep replacing the fuse and expecting it to start
> working. Whatever is making the fuse blow hasn't been fixed.

Not always the case. Sometimes fuses weaken with age, and a
replacement is all that's needed. This has happened to me many a time
in various types of equipment, but should the fuse blow a second time,
then investigation and repair is required.

Sometimes you can use a larger fuse to blow the fault clear and make
fault finding easier or more obvious - the cause has blown itself to
pieces. :O)

Depends on the piece of kit of course, and what's inside it.

--?
www.g-lightfoot.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk
Please remove the spam trap from my email addy to reply.

Gary Lightfoot
August 20th 03, 01:44 AM
Tweetldee wrote:

> That wasn't what I said. I said that "It's pointless to keep
> replacing the fuse and expecting it to start working". If the fuse
> repeatedly blows, then there is a problem with the circuit, not the
> fuse.

I know what you said, I just pointed out that sometimes fuses can blow
due to age. Why so upset??

> Your "brute-force" approach to troubleshooting is dubious.

Why is replacing a fuse once if all else appears OK brute force? Read
my comments again slowly, and you'll see that I said:

"but should the fuse blow a second time, then investigation and repair
is required."

You obviously didn't read my post properly and have gone all
defensive.

> certainly wouldn't let you work on any of my equipment, knowing that
> you were going to deliberately cause more damage, possibly causing a
> fire in it. You would certainly be buying a replacement for me if I
> ever caught you doing that to anything of mine.

LOL, you're really upset aren't you? :O)

At no time would I deliberately cause more damage. If you'd seen the
smilie you'd have realised it was tongue in cheek, but on larger
electrical (not electronic) equipment it can actually work. You have
to
be aware of what's inside the kit. Read my comments again slowly and
you'll see I said:

"Depends on the piece of kit of course, and what's inside it."

> But, I'm sure that you've had years of experience and success using
> this technique, so best wishes to you.

Well, yes I have thanks. Being on call-out having to repair equipment
at all hours to prevent major service failures has given me a lot of
experience in fault finding and repair. I can assure you that if I was
unable to find faults and complete effective repairs I wouldn't be in
the same job for over 20 years and still on call-out now would I? :O)

Think calming thoughts and have a glass of hot milk before bedtime.
;O)

--?
www.g-lightfoot.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk
Please remove the spam trap from my email addy to reply.